How to String a BJD: A Veteran’s No-Nonsense Guide

Every BJD owner knows a certain sound—not the click of a joint posing, but the soft thud of a doll slumping over, unable to support itself. Or maybe it’s the dreaded “kick test” failure: lift a leg and it swings back limply. That means your doll’s elastic is tired, and it’s time to restring.

For many, seeing their doll in pieces is scary, like surgery best left to ‘experts.’ But that’s not true. I’ve been in this hobby since the days of waiting months and viewing grainy forum photos. I’ve restrung everything from tiny 1/6 dolls to hulking 70 cm behemoths. Learning how to string a BJD isn’t just about repair—it’s the most important step to fully understand and connect with your doll.

This isn’t just mechanical—it’s a conversation with the engineer and sculptor behind your doll. You become more than an owner; you’re a caretaker. Take a deep breath. We’ll demystify this process, piece by piece.

Why Restringing is a Skill Every Owner Should Learn

Before we get into the process, let’s address a question: Why not just send your doll to a service instead?

• Mastery Over Posing: A doll with factory stringing is often strung for shipping, not for optimal posing. A fresh, custom-tensioned stringing job is the difference between a doll that can barely stand and one that can hold a dynamic, one-legged pose. It’s how you fix loose BJD joints for good.
• Deep Understanding: When you disassemble your doll, you gain insight into how it functions. You understand the engineering of the joints, the purpose of every groove and channel. You learn its balance points, its limitations, and its strengths. You learn its secrets.
• The Bond: There is nothing quite like the feeling of seeing your doll, once a collection of parts on your floor, stand tall and proud because of the work of your own two hands. It forges a profound bond of care and respect. It’s an act of renewal.

The Restringing Toolkit: Your Essential Gear

You don’t need a professional workshop. You just need the right tools for the job. Having these ready will make the process smooth and stress-free.

H3: The Non-Negotiables

• Elastic Cording: The key supply, available in various thicknesses (2mm, 3mm, 4mm, etc.). For 1/4 (YoSD) dolls, use 2-2.5mm; for 1/3 (SD) dolls, use 3-4mm. 70 cm or taller dolls may require 5mm. Buy extra—it’s cheap.
• A Stringing Tool: Usually a long thin metal rod with a hook or loop at the end. A crochet hook taped to a dowel can work, but a proper tool (like Hemostat Locking Forceps or a dedicated doll tool) is a game-changer. I swear by my long hemostats.
• Hemostats or Needle-Nose Pliers: For grasping elastic in tight spaces and clamping it while you tie knots. Locking hemostats are ideal.
• Scissors: For cutting the old and new elastic.

H3: The “Makes Your Life Easier” Gear

• A Soft Surface: You’ll want a padded blanket, yoga mat, or large towel and to work on the floor. This will protect your doll from scratches and save your knees.
• Extra S-Hooks: These small metal hooks, connecting elastic loops to hands, feet, and head, can get lost or bent. Keep spares handy.
• Masking Tape or Painter’s Tape: Useful for taping over the faceup (the painted face of a BJD) to protect it during the process.
• A Small Bowl: Use this to collect S-hooks and small parts so they don’t vanish into the carpet.

The Main Event: A Step-by-Step BJD Stringing Tutorial for Beginners

Let’s begin. We’ll use a standard double-strung doll (one elastic loop for legs/torso, one for arms/head), the most common method.

Before you start: Lay out your soft blanket. Take a “before” photo of your doll, especially how the S-hooks are oriented in the hands and feet. This is the most important part of any bjd stringing tutorial for beginners.

Step 1: The Gentle Disassembly

Carefully untie or cut the old elastic at the knot, which is usually inside the head or torso. Be prepared—the tension release can cause parts to pop apart. Gently unthread the old elastic, laying out the pieces in order on your blanket. I like to lay them out like a paper doll: head, torso, left arm parts, right arm parts, and so on. This prevents you from putting the right thigh on the left shin.

Step 2: The Leg Loop – The Foundation

The legs are the foundation of a stable doll. We start here.

1. Take your new elastic and thread it up through one foot, the lower leg, the knee joint, and the upper leg.
2. At the hip, guide the elastic through the hip joint and into the main torso piece.
3. Pull the elastic out through the neck hole of the torso.
4. Now, thread the same piece of elastic back down through the other hip joint, and down through the second leg (upper leg, knee, lower leg, foot).
5. You should now have two ends of the elastic sticking out of the feet. Attach an S-hook to each end. This loop now connects both feet and runs up through the torso. Don’t tie it off yet.

Step 3: The Arm and Head Loop

This is a separate loop that will nest inside the first one.

1. Take a new piece of elastic. Thread it through one hand, the lower arm, the elbow joint, and the upper arm.
2. Guide the elastic through the shoulder joint and across the inside of the upper chest/torso piece, then out the other shoulder.
3. Thread it down through the second arm (upper, elbow, lower, hand).
4. Attach an S-hook to the elastic end with one hand.
5. The other end of the elastic should be coming out of the other hand. Pull this end up through the neck hole, alongside the leg loop. This is the end that will attach to the head.

Step 4: Tying Off and The Tension Test

This is the most critical part of learning how to string a bjd.

1. The Legs: Pull the two S-hooks at the feet until the legs are snug against the torso. You want enough tension so they don’t flop, but not so much that they snap into position. Clamp the two strands of elastic together inside the torso with your hemostats. Now, tie a secure, double or triple surgeon’s knot. Trim the excess elastic.
2. The Arms/Head: Pull the elastic coming out of the neck until the arms are snug. Hook the head’s S-hook onto this elastic. Now, pull until the head sits firmly on the neck. This requires the most strength. Clamp the elastic with hemostats right below the S-hook, tie your knot, and trim.

The Kick Test: Your doll is now assembled. Hold it by the torso and gently lift one leg up to a 90-degree angle. Let go. It should slowly drift down. If it snaps back down, it’s too tight. If it falls limply, it’s too loose. Adjust your knots accordingly.

Scaling Up: Notes for an SD Size BJD Restringing Tutorial

Restringing a larger doll, like a 60-70cm boy, follows the same principles but with more muscle. This is where a basic guide evolves into a specific SD size bjd restringing tutorial.

• Elastic is Thicker: You’ll be using 3.5mm, 4mm, or even 5mm elastic. It’s much harder to pull and knot.
• You Need More Leverage: A good pair of locking hemostats isn’t just recommended; it’s essential. It acts as a third hand, holding the immense tension while you tie the knot.
• Don’t Be a Hero: Restringing a big doll can be a two-person job. One person holds the parts and pulls the elastic, while the other manages the S-hooks and ties the knots.
• Protect the Faceup: Tape a piece of soft cloth or bubble wrap over the doll’s face. It’s very easy for a heavy head to slip and get damaged.

Common Headaches: BJD Stringing Troubleshooting

Things can and do go wrong. It’s part of the process. Here are some common issues and their solutions. This is your go-to bjd stringing troubleshooting guide.

• Problem: “My doll is a floppy mess and can’t stand.”
  • Cause: Your tension is too loose.
  • Solution: This is the easiest fix. You’ll need to unhook the head or feet, pull the elastic tighter, and re-tie your knots. Don’t be afraid to really pull on it.
• Problem: “My doll is stiff and snaps into poses. It feels like it’s going to explode.”
  • Cause: Your tension is way too tight. This can damage the resin over time.
  • Solution: You have to loosen it. Re-tie the knots with a bit more slack. The goal is to strike a balance between firmness and flexibility.
• Problem: “I can’t get the S-hook back into the head/foot!”
  • Cause: The space is tight, and the elastic is fighting you.
  • Solution: Use your stringing tool or hemostats. Hook the elastic loop and pull it through the hole first. Then, while holding it, use your other hand to attach the S-hook.
• Problem: “One leg/arm is looser than the other.”
  • Cause: The knot inside the torso may have shifted, making one side of the loop longer.
  • Solution: You may need to restring that section, making sure the knot is centered as you apply tension.

A Final Word: The Connection in the Tension

The first time you successfully restring your doll, something changes. It’s no longer a fragile, mysterious object. It’s a piece of engineering, you understand —a companion you have cared for on a fundamental level. You’ve literally put its skeleton back together.

The tension in the elastic is more than just a force. It’s the lifeblood of the doll. It’s what allows for the subtle tilt of a head, the gentle curve of a wrist, the solid stance that lets it stand on your shelf and watch over your room. Learning how to string a BJD is learning the language of that life. Now, go give your doll the backbone it deserves.